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Traveling the John Muir Trail in Tulare County

by Laurie Schwaller

     The epic grand finale of the John Muir Trail is its spectacular last 25 miles in Tulare County, all above 10,000′, culminating in summiting 14,505′ Mt. Whitney, highest peak in the contiguous 48 states. This sensational home stretch includes the climb over Forester Pass, at 13,200′ the highest on the JMT, marvelous meadows, numerous lakes and rushing creeks, vast vistas on the Bighorn Plateau, diverse coniferous forests, plentiful wildlife, wonderful wildflowers, precipitous peaks and beautiful basins, brilliant night skies, and soul-filling days in John Muir’s Range of Light. A journey of a lifetime experience.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   November 2025

NOTE: The Project Team will be conducting research for a full article as volunteer time allows.  Contact us if you’d like to help research, write about, and/or illustrate this Treasure!

 

John Muir Trail – The Grant Finale

Maps & Directions:

The quickest way to get to the JMT in Tulare County is to drive to the other side of the Sierra and hike west to the JMT. A recommended route for hiking this epic section of the JMT is to access the JMT via Kearsarge Pass and to leave your hike via Whitney Portal. This requires a 2-vehicle shuttle arrangement, with one vehicle for your trip home available at Whitney Portal on your exit day and the other vehicle delivering you to Onion Valley.

Wilderness Permit required. There are quotas on this trail, so reserve it well in advance via Recreation.gov (see https://www.recreation.gov/permits/233262 Inyo National Forest Wilderness Permits if you’re entering the Wilderness via Kearsarge Pass trail; specify Mt. Whitney Trail Crest exit). Try 6 days for this approximately 75 mile hike (giving yourself an overnight at one of the campgrounds coming down from Trail Crest to Whitney Portal; your knees and feet will thank you!).  

Directions:

From Visalia, go west on Hwy 198 to Hwy 99 south to Bakersfield and take Hwy 58 East over Tehachapi and down to the junction with Hwy 14. Go north on Hwy 14 to Hwy 395 north to Lone Pine, then take Whitney Portal Road about 13 miles to the parking area near the JMT trail (this road is usually open from May to early November).

To proceed to Onion Valley, return to Lone Pine and continue north on Hwy 395 about 16 miles to Independence (note that a commercial shuttle can be arranged also). In Independence, go left (west) on Market Street, which soon becomes Onion Valley Road, about 14 miles to Onion Valley and the Kearsarge Pass trailhead. Elevation at Onion Valley is about 9,200′-9,600′. Spend the night in the campground there to start getting acclimated if you can. Trailhead is at 9,200′; Kearsarge Pass is at 11,709′, where it enters Kings Canyon National Park. (Onion Valley Road is closed due to snow from approximately November to April.)

 


Site Details & Activities:

Environment: Mountains, mostly above 10,000′, diverse conifer forests, meadows, many lakes and tarns, rushing creeks, waterfalls, towering granite walls and peaks, almost barren Bighorn Plateau, abundant wildlife and wildflowers, challenging trails, superb scenery, highest pass (13,200′) on the JMT, exhilarating summit of Mt. Whitney (14,505′); Inyo National Forest, Kings Canyon National Park, and Sequoia National Park
Activities: backpacking, birding, botanizing, camping, hiking, history/historical sites, fishing (license required), mountaineering, photography, rock climbing, stargazing, wildflower and wildlife viewing (no mechanized/motorized equipment and no pets allowed in Wilderness)
Open: Inyo National Forest and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks are always open, weather permitting , except in emergency conditions; Wilderness Permit required for overnight visits; quotas apply on many trails, generally late May through late September, with Recreation fee required for entry during quota season; reservations may be made 6 months to 1 week before entry date; campfire permits may be required (NOTE that campfires are not permitted in some areas), maximum group sizes (including stock) apply.
Site Stewards: Inyo National Forest, 760-876-6200 (reserve your Wilderness Permit via Recreation.gov ; see Link below); National Park Service, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, 559-565-3341; Wilderness Office, 559-565-3766
Opportunities for Involvement: donate, volunteer, Sequoia Parks Conservancy
Links: There are many books and online sources of information about hiking the John Muir Trail. Read as much as you can, plan thoroughly and far ahead of your trip time, study the permit system and hope you can get the dates that you want. Be prepared to be flexible. This hike is worth it.
Kearsarge Pass Trail to JMT: https://www.fs.usda.gov/sites/nfs/files/legacy-media/inyo/ROG%20Kearsarge%20Pass%20Trail.pdf
Wilderness Permit for Kearsarge Pass Trail entry through Whitney Portal Trail exit: www.recreation.gov/permits/233262 Inyo National Forest Wilderness Permits (be sure to select Overnight Exiting Mt. Whitney)
Sequoia Kings Canyon National Parks (NPS Site)